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on May 5, 2015

Could you comment on this 'change' I made to a grounding scenario. At a pavilion (outdoor) I noted several times that the clamp affixing the ground wire for the service had been pulled off or just fallen off from the protruding ground rod. I had tightened the screws in the clamp at least once but still it happened. So I added some JB WELD Permalock thread locking glue on the rod surface and pushed the clamp onto the rod and tightened it. THEN..... I read where JB Weld is not conductive, more a resistance to current flow. Do you think the tiny amount between the rod and clamp I attached would reduce the flow of current to ground if ever that flow was needed due to an issue?

on Feb 3, 2016

Use a new connector that's made for the purpose. Clearly, the one you glued has become unfit for the purpose.

on Dec 14, 2015

I've got a question about replacing 2-prong, non-grounding receptacles.
If a branch circuit has 4 non-grounding receptacles, can you replace the first one with a GFCI and let it protect the rest using standard 3-prong receptacles or do they all have to be GFCI?

on Mar 3, 2016

I am looking for an article about separating the grounds after the first point of disconnect to the sub panels.

on Jul 12, 2016

You need to isolate the neutral from the point they are bonded at the main service disconnect to all sub panels. Only when you come out of a separately derived service such as a transformer -- maybe even fed by a sub panel -- do you bond them again; this time in the transformer. Rule of thumb is generally if you have overcurrent protection ahead you separate them by isolating the neutral. If you want to learn bonding and grounding get you a Soures green book. I find that when I teach classes even the most experienced electricians and inspectors do not understand these principals. Do a search. I am sure EC&M has many in their archives.

Jim Yancey
State Inspector-Engineer
State of North Carolina.

on Apr 21, 2016

Photo 5 of the range & dryer receptacles shows two 3-wire & one 4-wire. The description says the opposite.

on Jul 6, 2016

The last two houses I've lived in were in rural settings, with well water. The incoming well pipe has been plastic. ABS, I believe. The in-house plumbing has been copper. In both cases, the electrical system was "grounded" by attaching the ground lead to the water pipe near the service entrance. These were both wired by licensed electricians!

on Mar 1, 2017

If those were the only system grounds, they would be violations. If there were other grounding electrodes serving that purpose, they would not be.

Water piping likely to become energized (say a system connected to an electric hot water heater) is required to be bonded. It is always good practice to bond such systems to allow for possible future connections.

on Jul 13, 2016

Excellent information.
Thank you.

on Oct 19, 2016

Nice article.

on Feb 17, 2017

New gas clothes dryer (less than 1 yr old) has standard three prong flexible cord. Do I still need to establish a separate grounding conductor to the frame of the dryer or do I simply need to ensure that the factory connected the frame to the grounding prong of the flexible cord where the cord leaves the back of the dryer?

on Mar 1, 2017

The cord will suffice as long as it is connected to a properly installed, grounded 3-wire receptacle.

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